The complaint we hear most from this part of the territory is a screeching or grinding sound that starts low and gets worse over a few weeks, usually louder on one side of the door than the other. That's the roller bearing breaking down - the steel roller common on doors from the mid-1990s doesn't fail quietly the way a nylon roller does.
A second version of the same problem shows up as the door hesitating or jerking partway up the track, which is usually a roller that's worn enough to bind rather than roll. Left alone, a stuck roller puts extra strain on the opener trying to pull the door past the rough spot, and that's how a $20 roller problem turns into an opener repair.
One honest note: if the noise is coming with visible rust flaking off the track itself rather than just the roller, replacing rollers alone won't fix it - the track's worn too, and that's a different repair. We'll tell you which one you actually need before we start, not after.